Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium, Oct 2011/ by Shelley Lance, Blog Editor
I was in Oxford, Mississippi, last week for the annual SFA Symposium. I’ve been to the Symposium twice in two years, and I’m already looking forward to next year. Why? Because this culinary event is a heady mix of academics, history, poetry, art, and progressive politics the like of which I have encountered no where else. Also, since the Symposium is jam-packed with Southerners, this is an exuberant group that likes to party! In addition, I’ve long been fascinated by the American South as a region with a culinary, cultural, and literary identity that is unique and potent. SFA has allowed me entry into this world in a way that feels authentic. Also, this year, even more than last year, the Southern food scene- chefs, restaurants, cookbooks, everything– is HOT! Vital, exciting, and full of life.
I also value the way that SFA constantly seeks to illuminate and discuss issues involving this country’s history of slavery and legacy of racism, rather than sweeping it under the rug.
If you want to learn more about SFA, check out their website which is packed with information, “okracasts” (podcasts), and oral history projects.
Here are some personal highlights from this year’s Symposium:
Poetry reading by Kevin Young. I bought his book, Dear Darkness, which has poems such as “An Ode to Gumbo,” and “A Prayer to Black Eyed Peas.”
Dinner at City Grocery by Chef Tyler Brown, who brought his own hand grown vegetables and his own beef (!) with him. The best course: “Candy Roaster Pumpkin, Morris Heading Collard, and Double H Beef”- with each item tasting purely and simply and intensely like pumpkin, collard, and beef. (small photo right)
Sean Brock of Charleston’s Husk, talking about the attempt to cultivate olive trees in the South from the time of Thomas Jefferson. We got a chance to taste the first commercial press of Georgian olive oil since the 1800s.
Printing an “SFA, A Common Table” poster with printmaker and artist Amos Kennedy on his printing press in Southside Gallery. (photo below)
Shirley Sherrod‘s talk “Forty Acres and a Mule,” and learning of her inspiring life’s work of helping small farmers in the South stay on their land.
The Viking Range Luncheon by Mike Lata of Fig in South Carolina. Every course deliciously and intelligently composed, especially the oyster and clam pan roast (photo above left), the butterbean “pasta e sieve” (photo above right), and the sticky sorghum pudding- one of the best desserts I’ve ever tasted and I’m picky about dessert! I can still taste the complex, rounded, fruity flavor of that Kentucky sorghum!
Learning the secret history of Long Beach radishes from farmer Felder Rushing, but most of all getting to see his pick up truck complete with dog, vegetable garden, and bottle garden! (Photo at the top.)
The Collard Greens Opera- “Leaves of Green,” composed by Price Walden and sung beautifully by students.
After a school bus ride down dark winding roads, the fried catfish and hushpuppies supper at Taylor Grocery (must remember to buy a flask for next year.)
Learning more about heirloom mirlitons than I ever thought possible.
Knock- you- down powerful but delicious bathtub punch by David Wondrich at the Saturday night achievement awards
One Night Stand art show at the Ole Miss Motel- this may be the original “Pop up.”
Extraordinary Tabasco Brunch- not sure what was most delicious but I did love the coal roasted sweet potatoes with sorghum butter and rosemary (photo above left). The collard greens with cotechino sausage and Tabasco potlikker may be the best collards ever. (a plate of Tabasco brunch, photo above, right)
This is just a taste! I could go on and on and on…. Can’t wait for SFA 2012 Symposium!! John T Edge is planning it already! I just read a tweet that he signed Eddie Huang of the Taiwanese steamed bun house Baohaus on the Lower East Side to talk about hip hop in BBQ!!
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