Tom Douglas

New York Brews/ by Adam Chumas, TDR Beverage director

It’s unfortunate, but my visits to the Big Apple are always spaced a few years apart.  However as a result I find the city inspires me in a new way each time I’m there. This time around the turning trees and the brisk air swirled me into the warmth of Gramercy Tavern. This Danny Meyer joint has really focused on providing their guests with a wealth of options in the realm of beer and cider, which seemed so appropriate for the season.  I was hooked right away.

Gramercy Tavern hit the mark with Ommegang Hennepin and Brooklyn Brewmaster’s Reserve: The Companion.  These two brews made an excellent pairing with some paté and pickled vegetables, stuffed clams, sweetbreads, and white fish croquettes.

Ommegang from Cooperstown, New York, brews traditional Belgian style ales.  The Hennepin is a Saison and its soft hop notes and bright acidity make it a fantastic food pairing beer.  the balance between body and acid allow it to stand with something as rich as pate or sweetbreads, while the light hoppy finish refreshed the palate for another bite.  Ommegang is the US project for Duvel and this Farmhouse Saison is a great one for year round enjoyment.

Brooklyn Brewery has been pushing the envelope in the Big Apple by making great beer part of the fine dining experience.  The Companion comes from their Brewmaster’s Reserve series and pays homage to the recently released Oxford Companion to Beer.  The Companion is a wheat wine, with 55% malted wheat.  The beer has a round mouth feel and finishes with a surprising brightness from the use of Brooklyn’s house ale hops.  The soft fruit notes provide an interesting contrast to rich meats and again the soft bitter tone from the hops helps to rejuvenate the palate.

How refreshing to enjoy beer in a fine New York restaurant. The dedication to providing a consummate selection of quaffing options is inspiring.  Fine dining isn’t only about wine.  Beer has its place too.

Here’s a list of great NY beers and ciders to check out:

Six Points Crisp Lager

Six Points Cask Autobahn IPA

Brooklyn Brewery Brewmaster’s Reserve: The Companion

Ommegang Hennepin

Eve’s Cidery Autumn Gold

November 7th, 2011