Dahlia Bakery Pumpkin Pies/ by Stacy Fortner, Pastry Chef
Happy Thanksgiving!!
Outside of Dahlia Bakery, ET and Jessica handing out free hot apple cider and bites of Rub with Love turkey!
Happy Thanksgiving everyone!!
I was lucky enough to snag a seat at last night’s Dahlia event featuring Brad Thomas Parsons, author of the new book, Bitters, which is already making its way onto “best” and “top ten” cookbook lists.
You may think there’s nothing to learn about that dusty, paper wrapped bottle of bitters that’s been hanging around your cupboard for a decade or two, but wait until Brad gives you his shop talk about the old world of traditional bitters and the new world of artisanal and handmade bitters, not to mention his recipes for some knock-your-socks-off modern cocktails.
Our resident super star chef, Brock Johnson, brilliantly paired the drinks with tasty bites, and as Brock explained, these types of cocktails don’t match easily with food due to their complex bittersweet flavors. An example: Autumn Sweater (rye, Amaro Nonino, maple bitters and orange bitters) with a great big ice cube, matched to white pepper pork belly and waffle. Sound intriguing?
Some people found the Autumn Sweater too sweet, but, despite the fact that I don’t have much of a sweet tooth, I was drawn to the almost syrupy but complex flavor of this cocktail with its bitter and herbal notes. (I first noticed the word “amaro” only a few days ago while chatting about the cocktail list with with our beverage manager, Adam Chumas.)
I’ve learned from Brad that I have a natural affinity for drinks with bitters, and I thoroughly enjoyed every one of the 5 generous cocktail “tastes” we were treated to at the event. My favorite cocktail is a Negroni, but Brad’s version with a dash of orange bitters and the drama of an ignited orange peel- was one of the best I’ve tasted with that bit of orange sweetness rounding out the other flavors. This was matched to a simple but very compatible plate of salty tastes of cheese, cured meats and fish, olives, and toasts prepared by Chef Brock (photo below).
If you missed Brad, you get another chance to see him at our upcoming Cookbook Social. Pick up a copy of his book for yourself and a couple more for gifts (I’m getting one for my 22 year old hipster niece in Chicago). You’ll find the cocktail recipes in his book. (If you want Brock to cook for you, you’ll have to make a resie at the Dahlia Lounge.)
The only cocktail recipe Brad served us last night that’s not in his book is the Cranberry -Spice cocktail that he developed for Food and Wine magazine. It’s so perfect for Thanksgiving that you’ll want to follow this link to the recipe.
These are pictures from my trip home last weekend. Mark and I eloped in September, but we wanted to celebrate in true Cajun, Creole fashion at a Cochon de Lait- A pig roast! So our friends and family were invited to ‘Come Pass a Good Time’ in River Ridge, Louisiana. The Pig is in the photo above.
This is the Obligatory Pot of Jambalaya. (photo above)
The most intriguing part of all this is the Cajun Microwave (photo below) which is a wooden box built with the heat source on top. The pig is seasoned and butterflied and cooked for 12 to 20 hours depending on the size. My dad and his friend Mark Haney started this 82 pound pig at 5:30 am. We ate during the 2nd quarter of the LSU Alabama game. We were all encouraged to kiss the pig to ensure LSU’s victory.
Here’s the link for Cajun microwave building plans. Gotta love the Cajuns!
The Cuoco team recently had a heartwarming experience at the wonderful Fisher House. Fisher House is “home away from home” for families of Veterans who are receiving care at VA Puget Sound Health Care Systems. Guests can be near their loved ones while having a comfortable, peaceful place to find rest and support for themselves. More than just a convenient and beautiful place to stay, the guests of Fisher House share common experience, form friendships, and become a unique family.
When we toured Fisher House, we met two lovely and positively exuberant, cheerful, and high spirited gals, Lorraine and Cecile, who run Fisher House and wear many hats. Yes, we mean actual hats- teeny tiny hats indeed! Why the tiny hats? Well, they said, how can you not be cheerful while wearing a wee little hat? They wear them every single day at work to spread the fun. We can speak from experience- the humor and warmth is addictive from bitsy top hats to itsy feathered hats to bedazzled hats galore. The hats all hang in Lorraine and Cecile’s office for everyone to admire and adore!
Our team at Cuoco wanted to create a special night for these families in need of some pampering. What’s more comforting than piles and piles of handmade pasta? Chef Stuart taught us how to make tagliatelle. Jesse and Jasper made treats of grapefruit soda and savory bomboloni. Meanwhile, Patty (Cuoco’s GM) and the team set the dining room for a three course family style dinner- all while wearing teeny chefs hats- of course!
We had so much fun together at Fisher House that we can’t wait to visit our friends again! As the holidays near, we hope that everyone shares in the season of giving- One tiny hat at a time!
It’s unfortunate, but my visits to the Big Apple are always spaced a few years apart. However as a result I find the city inspires me in a new way each time I’m there. This time around the turning trees and the brisk air swirled me into the warmth of Gramercy Tavern. This Danny Meyer joint has really focused on providing their guests with a wealth of options in the realm of beer and cider, which seemed so appropriate for the season. I was hooked right away.
Gramercy Tavern hit the mark with Ommegang Hennepin and Brooklyn Brewmaster’s Reserve: The Companion. These two brews made an excellent pairing with some paté and pickled vegetables, stuffed clams, sweetbreads, and white fish croquettes.
Ommegang from Cooperstown, New York, brews traditional Belgian style ales. The Hennepin is a Saison and its soft hop notes and bright acidity make it a fantastic food pairing beer. the balance between body and acid allow it to stand with something as rich as pate or sweetbreads, while the light hoppy finish refreshed the palate for another bite. Ommegang is the US project for Duvel and this Farmhouse Saison is a great one for year round enjoyment.
Brooklyn Brewery has been pushing the envelope in the Big Apple by making great beer part of the fine dining experience. The Companion comes from their Brewmaster’s Reserve series and pays homage to the recently released Oxford Companion to Beer. The Companion is a wheat wine, with 55% malted wheat. The beer has a round mouth feel and finishes with a surprising brightness from the use of Brooklyn’s house ale hops. The soft fruit notes provide an interesting contrast to rich meats and again the soft bitter tone from the hops helps to rejuvenate the palate.
How refreshing to enjoy beer in a fine New York restaurant. The dedication to providing a consummate selection of quaffing options is inspiring. Fine dining isn’t only about wine. Beer has its place too.
Here’s a list of great NY beers and ciders to check out:
Six Points Crisp Lager
Six Points Cask Autobahn IPA
Brooklyn Brewery Brewmaster’s Reserve: The Companion
Ommegang Hennepin
Eve’s Cidery Autumn Gold
I had the great pleasure of joining Sonja, Lindsey, Mauricio, Carrie, Maureen, Kate, and Austin as we served a donation dinner to the wonderful residents of Seattle’s Ronald McDonald House.
We served curried chicken and rice, salad, fresh fruit, and fabulous Dahlia Bakery cookies and coco bites. Needless to say, people were thrilled and extremely thankful. I was blown away at what an amazing place it is and how easy their staff made it for us to prepare and serve these incredibly resillient families a delicious meal.
I was also blown away by the incredible staff members who spent their days off working to help others in need. A big thanks to Sonja for putting it all together and to RE and Napua for working durng a busy Restaurant Week Monday so we could go. We had such a great experience that we will definitely be doing it again.
Oh and here’s to Carol at the Wedgewood Broiler, the crankiest, crustiest, and most fabulous bar wench in Seattle.
Cheers!
Sunday morning breakfast at Serious Biscuit started with 3 different wood-fired egg dishes cooked in little cast iron skillets in the Serious Pie pizza oven!!
Parmesan cream, oil cured tomatoes and arugula; house ham, Beecher’s cheddar and green onion; fennel sausage, fingerling potatoes, and tomato sauce- each served with a delicious warm buttermilk biscuit, butter, honey, and house made pear butter. Yum!!
The bloody beer is surprisingly light and has just the right amount of heat in it, and the oven roasted peppers are perfectly delicious garnish! Prosser Farm jalapeno water, Rainier beer, Alta Cucina tomatoes, and Murray River salted glass rim.
The seasonal Bellini with wood fire roasted pear, prosecco, and lemon was a perfect “dessert!”
Editor’s Notes: What used to be called Dahlia Workshop Biscuit Bar has been renamed Serious Biscuit, with weekend brunch served upstairs in the Serious Pie Westlake space. Photos courtesy of Uber Summer Camper Bruce Miyahara
I was in Oxford, Mississippi, last week for the annual SFA Symposium. I’ve been to the Symposium twice in two years, and I’m already looking forward to next year. Why? Because this culinary event is a heady mix of academics, history, poetry, art, and progressive politics the like of which I have encountered no where else. Also, since the Symposium is jam-packed with Southerners, this is an exuberant group that likes to party! In addition, I’ve long been fascinated by the American South as a region with a culinary, cultural, and literary identity that is unique and potent. SFA has allowed me entry into this world in a way that feels authentic. Also, this year, even more than last year, the Southern food scene- chefs, restaurants, cookbooks, everything– is HOT! Vital, exciting, and full of life.
I also value the way that SFA constantly seeks to illuminate and discuss issues involving this country’s history of slavery and legacy of racism, rather than sweeping it under the rug.
If you want to learn more about SFA, check out their website which is packed with information, “okracasts” (podcasts), and oral history projects.
Here are some personal highlights from this year’s Symposium:
Poetry reading by Kevin Young. I bought his book, Dear Darkness, which has poems such as “An Ode to Gumbo,” and “A Prayer to Black Eyed Peas.”
Dinner at City Grocery by Chef Tyler Brown, who brought his own hand grown vegetables and his own beef (!) with him. The best course: “Candy Roaster Pumpkin, Morris Heading Collard, and Double H Beef”- with each item tasting purely and simply and intensely like pumpkin, collard, and beef. (small photo right)
Sean Brock of Charleston’s Husk, talking about the attempt to cultivate olive trees in the South from the time of Thomas Jefferson. We got a chance to taste the first commercial press of Georgian olive oil since the 1800s.
Printing an “SFA, A Common Table” poster with printmaker and artist Amos Kennedy on his printing press in Southside Gallery. (photo below)
Shirley Sherrod‘s talk “Forty Acres and a Mule,” and learning of her inspiring life’s work of helping small farmers in the South stay on their land.
The Viking Range Luncheon by Mike Lata of Fig in South Carolina. Every course deliciously and intelligently composed, especially the oyster and clam pan roast (photo above left), the butterbean “pasta e sieve” (photo above right), and the sticky sorghum pudding- one of the best desserts I’ve ever tasted and I’m picky about dessert! I can still taste the complex, rounded, fruity flavor of that Kentucky sorghum!
Learning the secret history of Long Beach radishes from farmer Felder Rushing, but most of all getting to see his pick up truck complete with dog, vegetable garden, and bottle garden! (Photo at the top.)
The Collard Greens Opera- “Leaves of Green,” composed by Price Walden and sung beautifully by students.
After a school bus ride down dark winding roads, the fried catfish and hushpuppies supper at Taylor Grocery (must remember to buy a flask for next year.)
Learning more about heirloom mirlitons than I ever thought possible.
Knock- you- down powerful but delicious bathtub punch by David Wondrich at the Saturday night achievement awards
One Night Stand art show at the Ole Miss Motel- this may be the original “Pop up.”
Extraordinary Tabasco Brunch- not sure what was most delicious but I did love the coal roasted sweet potatoes with sorghum butter and rosemary (photo above left). The collard greens with cotechino sausage and Tabasco potlikker may be the best collards ever. (a plate of Tabasco brunch, photo above, right)
This is just a taste! I could go on and on and on…. Can’t wait for SFA 2012 Symposium!! John T Edge is planning it already! I just read a tweet that he signed Eddie Huang of the Taiwanese steamed bun house Baohaus on the Lower East Side to talk about hip hop in BBQ!!
Line cook Lindsey as Mario Batali!
Head pastry chef Stacy as Evel Knievel!
RSS SubscribeWelcome to Family Meal, a blog that examines all things new and noteworthy in the world of food, wine, and dining.
At family meal, otherwise known as staff meal, there’s no hierarchy; you’re breaking bread with your friends. For those 30 minutes, everyone is equal- and hungry. Family meal is our version of the water cooler- but with better food.
I’ll be sharing my thoughts, tips, and observations, and, in the spirit of family meal, I’ve invited our creative, energetic staff- everyone from line cook to bartender to bookkeeper- to have a say. I hope you’ll add your own comments and join in the conversation.
-Tom Douglas