La Bete/ by Jessica Moore, Tom’s Assistant
I’m in a conundrum. It is not unlike one I have had in many instances past, but I still struggle with the same angst every time it arises: I found a new spot that I love and I’m not sure if I want to share it because you might take the last barstool. Ah, well. Those kindergarten lessons paid off, and I do know that ‘sharing is caring,’ and, alas, I want these boys to survive and thrive in their new joint, so here you have it: I am in love with La Bete.
I made a 7:30 reservation last night for my friend Shannon’s birthday. She hemmed and hawed about laying low for her birthday, but it occurred to me that La Bete could be the most delightfully appropriate venue for her anti-birthday birthday, and man… I’m glad I’m always right.
We were greeted with open arms by the manager, Dan (literally- I think he hugged us), who had us all set up at the counter. Within seconds, a bottle of Cremant arrived, sent with love from our best friend in Boston. Set a bucket of bubbles in front of me anytime and consider me sated, but this was only the beginning.
Right off the bat, I couldn’t read any further down the menu without trying the Parmesan gougeres with white anchovy and egg. I will always eat gougeres by the fistful- I mean, put them in a popcorn tub and leave me alone- but it was the anchovy that really got me salivating this time. The pairing was in fact lovely, and I think I would come back to it again for an especially delightful brunch snack. But I am curious why they were served cold… I will let that slide for now, because, as I said, love can make a gal forgive such shortcomings.
It took me about 3 seconds to decide on my main course- the mushroom bread pudding. The same applied for Shannon who is a sucker for lamb, which in this case, was paired with baby carrots, the cutest little baby golden beets, and harissa. None of this needs literary adornment here. The main course exceeded every one of my expectations, and we both licked our plates. ‘Nuf said.
One beautiful aspect of La Bete is watching the (shockingly calm) kitchen toil away over their creations whilst you sit at the counter. Though the kitchen lights are a little too bright for my utter and complete dining comfort- c,mon what lady doesn’t prefer dim lighting? – you can literally see the love back there. It’s a beautiful thing.
The gents sent us out a little surprise- the kabocha squash soup with herb popover. And how. This dish turned out to be the sleeper hit. Literally the most enticing squash soup I have ever slurped. Shannon’s first comment was, “This kinda reminds me of Chartreuse.” After glancing at her with furrowed brown and tucking my spoon in, I totally and completely agreed. But how? All I can put my finger on is the combination of the clove and its heat, balanced with a bright green herb oil garnish and Voila!- Chartreuse squash soup. Just take my word for it- it’s real, real good.
The soup is served in a delicate little teacup, atop a painter’s palette-shaped plate, both rimmed in silver. On that adorable little china set also comes an herb popover stuffed with herbs and blue d’auvergne, served warm… and oozing… and I think it was screaming my name out loud.
I’m drooling too much to write much more. If I were a real woman, I would have loosened my belt and gone straight for the churros with sipping (dipping) chocolate and parsnip foam. Mexican vegetal cappuccino? Sure. But I just… couldn’t. I have enough reasons to come back, but I’m sure going for dessert next time.
Caption for the photo: this is what Shannon ended up with in front of her at the end of the meal: I’d say that’s the portrait of success.
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