Italian Art on the Plate at La Galleria/ by Tom Cole, Etta’s
One could well call Edmonds “Little Italy.” Driving into town along Edmonds Way, you first pass Pagliacci Pizza, then FIVE Bistro with its pizza and Italian snacks, then Romio’s Pizza & Pasta. Farther on, as the road curves into downtown, there is still Girardi’s Osteria with its water-spitting Bacchus out front and contemporary Olives dishing out fine Italian and Mediterranean fare. Brand new Epulo Bistro joins the festa with a series of its own pizzas in addition to other homey favorites. And in the middle of all this, tucked between Petosa’s Family Grocer and the stalwart Pancake Haus on Fifth Avenue, is La Galleria.
A corner table and a glowing red candleholder on a lazy night set the mood for a relaxing dinner. We sipped an Italian Pinot Grigio and had it alongside fresh, fluffy bread baked on site. Our waiter gave us lots of love, not just because we were his only table, but also due to his being the owner, Joshua Colberg: a sharp wine guy with a passion for the food and a manner both small town smiles and starched-apron professional. He even brought out a lovely vase of colorful cut flowers from a wedding reception they hosted the day before. “You liked the candle so much, I thought you’d like the flowers too,” he said.
We shared a seared tuna appetizer (photo second from top) in a light tomato sauce (with more bread magically appearing for mopping the plate clean). Organic green salads and a crack of black pepper preceded the entrees: properly airy gnocchi in a gorgonzola cream sauce, a vibrant-but-not-too-spicy pasta puttanesca, and my own fettuccini with prawns (photo bottom left) in a restrained, more classic Alfredo sauce lightly coating the pasta rather than drowning it in a puddle of cream. Desserts are also their own, and the lemon torte with ice cream, lemon zest, and a honey drizzle (photo bottom right) brought our night in Little Italy to a refreshing conclusion.
Next time it’s brunch. Or the hidden, wine-colored lounge in back for cocktails and nibbles. The place can roar on weekends, so call ahead. And if you’re going to Edmonds, best brush up on your Italian. Ciao!
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April 23rd, 2010 at 10:44 am
I am so glad to hear about a great itallian place! I’ve been looking for one, as I am getting sick and tired of mediocre red sauces and alfredo. That prawn is making me hungry.