Tom Douglas

Trattoria Mario, Florence/ by Shelley Lance

This trattoria, located across the street from the Central Market (Florence’s large food market), is laid-back, casual, and lunch-only.  It is wildly popular with both locals and tourists.  You patiently stand in line (photo top) outside the door waiting for your name to be called, which gives you plenty of time to read the glowing reviews (some in English, most in Italian) plastered to the window while you ponder the day’s menu.  This is helpful because once inside, you won’t receive a menu; you have to read what’s posted on the wall (plus,if you’re eating on the late side, several items may be crossed out), so it’s best to mentally prepare ahead. (There are also signs posted on the walls which say, in Italian,  “We cook your steak our way” and ” You are forbidden to order a well done steak,”  since Trattoria Mario is known for Bistecca alla Fiorentina- rare grilled steak.)

We discovered Trattoria Mario by reading The Food Lover’s Guide to Florence by Emily Wise Miller, who calls this her favorite restaurant in Florence.  My Florence restaurant experience is much more limited than Miller’s, but this turned out to be one of my very favorite places as well.

Once you get through the door, you’re likely to be seated with others at a communal table. Your paper placemat, flatware and paper napkin are placed in front of you, and you will soon be asked for your order. The food quickly flies out of the tiny kitchen (second photo from top). The service is cheerful and relaxed. The cooking is straightforward and homey- true Tuscan comfort food.

I’d tasted the classic Tuscan dish, ribollita- a thick puree based on stale bread which is more the texture of polenta than a brothy soup- at a few places- but Trattoria Mario’s ribollita (third photo from top) is the first version I found to be delicious- layered with the flavors of bread, good olive oil, beans, kale, and other vegetables.

We also enjoyed a divine tagliatelle with ragu (fourth photo from top), also a tasty ravioli with tomato sauce, plus succulent and juicy roast pork (bottom photo), and bollito misto with a vibrant spinach-y green sauce as well as a yummy contorni (veg side dish) of well-cooked zucchini in tomato sauce (in the photo with the pork).  The patate fritte (french fries) were sensational- perfectly fried in olive oil and sprinkled with just the right amount of salt.

I liked Trattoria Mario so much I returned a few days later for a second visit, just as good, if not better than the first time.  I ordered a grilled veal chop- perfectly cooked, tender and delicious, finished with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of salt and served with nothing more than a lemon wedge.  It was the best piece of meat that I ate on the whole 2 week trip to Italy.

June 15th, 2009